The end door for my work car/caboose was constructed from a piece of 1/8" basswood, with 1/16" trim. The gaps between the "boards" were sawed in with a razor saw before applying the trim. The outside window trim overlaps the window opening by about 1/16", and the 1/32" acrylic window glazing is held in by a frame of 1/16" x 3/32" strips glued onto the 1/16" inside window trim (this structure should be visible in the detail view of the window). The inside framing was glued together and to the inner frame pieces in place, with aluminum foil covering the surrounding area to keep it from sticking. The assembly was not secured into place until after painting, to allow the glazing to be removed during painting. For now, the framing is simply friction-fitted in and secured with paint around the outer edges, to facilitate replacing the glazing if it gets too scratchy.

The exterior is stained with Wall-Mart's House Beautiful brand so-called deep penetrating exterior latex stain, "Redwood" color. Interior is latex enamel of some brand I do not recall, "Spearmint" color.

The hinges for the door are dollhouse parts from Houseworks Ltd. part no. 1122 (Micro-Mark also has such hinges). They were first nailed to the door (with recesses cut to bring them roughly flush with the side) and then to the frame. The doorknobs are #14 escutcheon pins, which work out close to 2" diameter in scale. They were chopped to length with a Dremel cut-off wheel. The 1/8" thick plate on the inside provides enough thickness to secure the shanks of the pins (they are currently press-fitted in, will be glued if/when they fall out, perhaps adding a small metal plate of 1/4" brass strip stock at the same time), and might not be needed if one wanted to put a bit more time into filing the ends of the pins flat and secured them with CA adhesive or the like.

Jeff Semprebon