As I write this, I am in the process of laying the track and have already started to think of design changes. I was lucky that moving to a new home gave me the opportunity to hire some help to dig the foundation and install the block work. It would have been a slow, back- breaking, project if I had done the block work myself.

There is almost 60 tons of steel reinforced concrete under the line as foundation and 36 tons of concrete block work jointed with 10 tons of mortar. I specified that the block work should be as level as possible for it's entire length and width. The walls are a nominal 16" above ground level for ease of operation and cheaper construction. 24" inches would have been ideal but the extra cost was alarming

My garden is very long and narrow, which allows for a very long straight run, this unfortunately has forced me into a small tight turn at the one end. So I guess that I will not be running the larger Maine style engines except for out and back shuttle trips.

One change I would make if I had the chance to do it over would be to replace the topping blocks with a single layer of Thermalite™ blocks. These are low density, aerated blocks that can take nails and will retain moisture, which will help to grow moss and add a realistic look to the track-work.

One interesting way to stimulate the growth of moss is to coat the concrete with natural yogurt. I have not decided yet if I will paint the sides of the block with masonry paint below the top or leave it natural and allow it to weather. Plus when I plant up some of the line the growth will help to hide the blocks from view.

The basic shape is a dog-bone about 300' long with a return loop at one end that I had to fit into an area only 16' wide. At the other end of the line I have nearly 35' to turn the line so I have a large increasing radius loop. It starts at a 4' radius and increases to a 20' radius. When the block work was put in this all looked to be a 20' radius but it did not turn out that way.

I am using LGB track and attaching it to the blocks with concrete nails driven almost but not completely into the block. This will allow me to reach the head with a claw hammer and raise the track if necessary to keep it level. I am fastening the areas near the rail joints and only a few places in between to allow for expansion when the weather warms up.

I am keeping the track in the center of the block but not trying to line is up so that it is laser straight. This adds a bit of realism to the long straight but does not cause the loco's I have test run to wander from side to side too much. One of the last things I will do as I finish the track will be to notch the tops of the rail to give the clickity-clack sounds as the wheels pass over them. I will also cement in the track with a cement/peat and gravel mix. This should help moss to grow along the line and look a little like grass and weed filled track work.

I plan to use an outdoor adhesive to glue down the switches and track in the yard areas where I used paving slabs that will not accept concrete nails once I am satisfied with operation on the line. My plan is to be able to sit or work in the garden and have a short consist trundle out and back whilst I do so.

The ideal transit time for a return trip down the line is about 8 minutes giving a speed of 15 mph., the loop being about 2 scale miles in length. There will be a few buildings and some line-side dressing but this line is about a railway within a garden not a miniature "Disneyland" so the dressings will be a few small huts. After all a mineral line is not renowned for its architectural splendor.

An obligatory 15-mph. speed limit will be applied at yards and turning loops especially as at the distant end of the line, where I am using a custom track switch. This is an ingenious design, which is built to send everything the same way round the loop and return it to the start without moving parts. This switch and the increasing radius track have a minimum radius of 4' and will ensure that this speed limit is adhered to. I did not set out with such a tight radius in mind as a trap that is permanently in the way for the unwary!

I also have a speedometer car amongst my stock so the small-scale guys, 16mm/ft, can be "clocked". I will have to get some form of large-scale brake van/caboose constructed to install another speedometer in and so control the running speed a bit. Although my 7/8th scale models will be Critters, Shay's and other geared wonders so high speed will never really be a major problem.

Stuart Moon