Building the Glendoric Estate Railway
This is
the first of three planned articles about the new 18" gauge Glendoric
Estate Railway renamed from the former 24" gauge Glendoric Tramway. After something like three years of
rudderless modeling in 7/8” and going off on more tangents than sparks off of a
Catherine wheel, I have finally decided what I want the line to be. Let me say right away that I do not believe
there is a right or a wrong concept in the world of 7/8” modeling. The following describes what is right for
me:
Whilst it may be a freelance model, it must have a plausible imaginary
purpose with a “local” angle.
The track plan must be appropriate to the
above purpose, and be capable of being operated rather than just being a
backdrop to run models on.
The line must have some consistency of
character to it. Any buildings directly
associated with the line should have a distinct “corporate image”, and most of
the stock should be built to a fairly consistent style.
The line must be simple in layout, with a minimum of buildings
and structures to avoid a crowded feel.
The
width available for my right-of-way is very narrow, often as little as 130mm (6
inches approx), and about 600mm (two feet) at the widest point. This means that gauge 1 does not look as
narrow as it should in 7/8” scale. I
also began to realize that real 18” gauge lines had much more of the character
and feel that I wanted to model; so, the momentous decision was taken to re-gauge
the complete line to 32mm, O Gauge.
The
imaginary history and purpose of the line begins in the late 1800s, when the
Glendoric Estate near Aberdeen, Scotland built a horse-drawn 24” gauge tramway
to take peat cuttings from the moors to the Gendoric Distillery. During the early 1900s the estate
diversified into timber, and also began operations with small steam and
internal combustion engines; however, by the end of WW2 the tramway had ceased
operations and was basically left to rot.
The
1990s brought a more enlightened owner of the estate, who decided to turn it
into a Scottish “Heritage Center” where the visiting public would be both
entertained and educated. The two
industries featured are naturally enough whisky and timber. The distillery runs conventional tours,
whilst the estate has recreated a period timber camp and also a steam-powered
sawmill.
The new
owners were aware of the original 24” tramway, but whilst a few items of stock
have been restored to static display, nothing remained that could be restored
to working order. However, quite by
chance an 18” gauge railway at an estate in Devon, England was closing
down. The new owners snapped up much of
the rail, a Hunslet “Waril” class steam locomotive in full working order and a
few items of rolling stock. The
intention is to lay track in such a way that visitors can travel between
attractions by means of the railway, and also so that demonstration timber and
peat trains can run as part of the heritage displays.
The new
owners bought a second-hand Plymouth gas-mechanical loco, which will be shipped
in parts from the USA. They also intend
to build a new one to their own design, inspired by the tiny Hudswell-Clarke
diesel used on the Horwich Works system.
New coaches will be built, along with new timber and peat wagons, to the
Estate’s own design.
This is
an interim “working” track plan for the Glendoric. It is unlikely that the actual line will follow this plan
exactly, but it does give an initial target to get the process going. The total
length of the line will be approximately 30 meters (100 feet). The intention is
to make it possible to operate the line with one steam loco and one
battery-powered i.c. loco, with a simple set of rules and movements appropriate
to the purpose of the imaginary line.
As I write, about 2/3rds of the line has been converted to 32mm gauge,
which scales out at about 250 yards in real-life. Yes, this sounds like a very short line, but I have just obtained
a book about the John Knowles 18” gauge line and have discovered that this line
was actually only 400 yards or so long.
I am convinced that despite it’s short length, it will be possible to
run a plausible operation with only one or two persons
The
track uses a mixture of recycled Tenmille G-scale, LGB and PECO G-45 rail, on
12mm x 12mm square softwood sleepers.
The key points about my track are as follows:
Because the code 332 rails are so thick
I do not put battens under my
track,
except for turnouts. This also true for the code 250, because
PECO make theirs from nickel silver which is a particularly stiff metal.
I do not have a rail-bender. I should, but would rather spend the money on
something else; I bend rail carefully by hand to the right profile
before spiking it to the sleepers.
Spikes are 13mm (1/2”) Gimp Pins, available
off the shelf at B&Q.
Sleepers
are made
from
12mm x 12mm softwood strips, again from B&Q. A two-meter strip makes enough sleepers for about 900mm (one
yard) of track. Before cutting into
individual sleepers, one side of the strip is drawn across a hacksaw blade held
in a vice to get a pronounced wood-grain effect.
Once a length of track
has
been made, creosote is slapped on to the sleepers
with an
old brush and then the section is left overnight up-ended in a drip tray before
it is installed.
The
right-of-way starts as a trench about 130mm (6”) wide and 65mm (3”) deep. This trench is either cut into turf, or
created by two rows of rocks or garden edging.
Into this I pour 6 – 10 mm of granite or limestone chippings, and then
tamp it with a few blows from a house-brick.
The track is laid on top, and then smaller granite chips are poured over
the top. A stiff paintbrush is then
used to spread the ballast between the sleepers, until it is up to the desired
level. For the first few months the
track has to be re-leveled and the ballast topped up every so often, but
eventually the ballast and track stabilizes and then only needs attention after
the winter.
Peter Bakke
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